Public opinion roundly condemns the use of animals for
their fur. Little explanation is required as to the reason why. Fur
is regarded as a cruel luxurious status symbol and little else.
Leather does not always receive such condemnation. In fact it is
often regarded as a practical by-product of the meat industry;
environmentally sound; a quality product readily available to all.
However, there is myth and ignorance surrounding its production.
Here we provide the reasons why we should condemn leather as
vociferously as we condemn fur. Fur Facts around 30 million animals,
mainly mink and fox - but also chinchilla, sable and even lynx - are
held captive in row upon row of metal wire cages, where they are
unable to pursue their natural instincts and so resort to
stereotyped behavior, self-mutilation and cannibalism. Death comes
by gassing, electrocution, lethal injection or neck breaking. There
are around 12 such factory farms in Britain (all mink), imprisoning
50,000 to 100,000 animals. Trapping accounts for an estimated 5
million animals worldwide, normally by means of steel-jawed leg hold
traps which are now illegal in Britain.
Leather & the 'By-Product'
Myth
Those purchasing leather products may
try to reassure themselves that the animal it came from had already
died for meat so it matters little that they 'use up' the remaining
skin for a pair of shoes or a jacket. However,
it does matter
because by doing this they will be helping to subsidies the meat
industry. Purchasing leather ensures the continuity of a massive
industry based on animal suffering. Not only leather, but every last
part of the animal is sold in order to make the whole bloody
business possible. Blood is made into fertilizer or used to fill out
pet food. Hair is removed to make paint brushes. Bones, hooves and
horns are boiled up and turned into gelatin(e) which is used to make
jelly, capsules for drugs and vitamins, sweets, biscuits,
photographic film, toiletries, cosmetics and matches.
Exploding the 'Bio-Degradable'
Myth
The leather industry try to brainwash the
public into believing that their product is bio-degradable and a
really positive purchase if you care about the environment. After
all, whoever heard of an environmentally-friendly
plastic?!
However, what the leather industry fail to mention is that in its
natural state leather would never be used for shoes, boots, bags or
anything else for that matter. Why? Because in its 'natural' state
it would rot extremely rapidly. However, even before it rotted down
to nothing, it still couldn't be used because it would become
rigidly hard and crack in the winter or very soft and limp in the
summer! At the end of the day those leather shoes wouldn't last very
long at all in their 'natural' state. What do the leather
manufacturers do about this? They treat the leather in various un
environmentally-friendly ways to make sure it won't go rigid in the
cold or flaccid in the heat and, more importantly, won't rot! If
leather is so bio-degradable and environmentally friendly what of
the
leather samples found in Northern Germany that were
estimated to be 12,000 old or leather artifacts believed to date
from the Neolithic and European Bronze Ages! Exotic Leathers Most
leather in the UK is made from the skins of cattle, calves, sheep,
lambs, goats and pigs. However, many other species are hunted and
killed
worldwide specifically for their skins. These include
zebras, bison, water buffaloes, boars, deer, kangaroos, alligators,
elephants, eels, sharks, dolphins, seals, walruses, frogs,
crocodiles, lizards and snakes.
Thousands of endangered olive
ridley sea turtles are captured and butchered illegally in Mexico,
solely for their skins. It is estimated that 25-30% of US imported
crocodile shoe leather and other wildlife items are made from
endangered illegally poached animals.
Leather & the Environment
The amount of waste and pollution generated
by the leather manufacturing industry is phenomenal. The stench from
a tannery is overwhelming. Not only do they pollute the air,
however, they also pollute the rest of the
environment with the
use of a multitude of harsh toxic chemicals. One estimate puts the
potential cost of an effluent treatment plant in a tannery at 30% of
the total outlay proving just how much of a major problem it
is.
Substances used in the manufacture of leather include: lime,
sodium sulfate solution, emulsifiers, non-solvent degreasing agents,
salt, formic acid, sulfuric acid, chromium sulfate salts, lead,
zinc, formaldehyde, fats, alcohol, sodium bicarbonate, dyes, resin
binders, waxes, coal tar derivatives and cyanide-based finishes.
Tannery effluent also contains large amounts of other pollutants
such as proteins, hair and salt. The leather industry also uses a
tremendous amount of energy. In fact on the basis of quantity of
energy consumed per unit produced, the
leather-manufacturing
industry would be categorized alongside the paper, steel, cement and
petroleum manufacturing industries as a gross consumer of energy.
Going back to the beginning of the horrific chain of events that
ends up with a leather product, we find environmental problems
already very evident. Farms that breed animals are in fact
themselves an environmental problem. Cattle belch and fart methane,
which is produced during fermentation in their guts. A typical
animal emits 48kg of methane a year, with more bubbling out of its
manure. In fact, nearly half of the EU's methane comes from ruminant
digestion and manure. Commercial dairying is not synonymous with
environmentally acceptable practice. Dairy farms are often
specialist units with high inputs of nitrogen and phosphorus - both
as fertilizers and purchased feeds. Stocking rates are high, there
is often no arable land on which to use slurry and dirty water, and
many units also grow maize which can cause
high losses of
nitrogen and phosphorus through leaching, run-off and erosion. Cows
averaging 35 liters of milk a day can require up to 100 liters of
drinking water a day. This requirement will increase in hot
conditions.
Beef farming makes other indirect contributions to
the greenhouse effect. For instance, fossil fuels are burnt to
generate the energy to produce fertilizer that feed the fodder crops
on which many animals feed. Rearing
beef is also land-intensive
with some 340,000 hectares of British farmland devoted to growing
feed for beef cattle, and beef cattle pastures take up more than a
million hectares. If some of this land was planted with trees
instead, these would soak up CO2 from the atmosphere as they
grow. The Wildlife Trusts report Crisis in the Hills demonstrates
that biodiversity in the uplands is literally being eaten away by
sheep farming. About 70% of heather moorland in England and Wales is
at risk and half of upland breeding birds in decline. Case studies
have been gathered from major upland areas in the UK highlighting
that the loss of biodiversity has reached national unacceptable
levels.
Meat & Leather
The type of meat that is purchased in the UK
has a direct effect on the type of leather available for the leather
manufacturing industry. If everybody decided they only wanted to eat
young lambs under a month old,
then the skin made available for
the leather industry would be very thin, soft and pliable. Soft
Products or Better Leather from Babies The younger the animal at the
time of slaughter, the smoother and finer the grain structure and
the less likelihood of damage due to scratches, parasite damage,
ringworm, dung contamination, improper flaying or inadequate
salting. The skin of a female is usually finer grained than that of
the male and has a looser fiber structure giving a softer, stretcher
leather.
Leather = Animal Suffering
The animal farming industries produce the
leather that manufacturing industries use. Animals begin by being
bred in intensive, semi-intensive or extensive systems. In other
words they may be factory farmed as in the case of veal calves (veal
crates are banned in this country but calves are still raised for
veal indoors in groups) or alternatively animals (such as sheep) may
be farmed extensively in hilly upland areas where they are more or
less left to their own devices suffering extremes of weather,
disease and a lack of adequate food. Even gentle dairy cows who are
often admired casually grazing the British countryside during the
summer, are housed for 6 months throughout the winter. Some dairy
cows are actually housed all year round. Both cattle and sheep
suffer from a variety of health problems and undergo a variety of
painful procedures depending on their species and sex e.g.
castration, ear-tagging, tail-docking, artificial insemination,
laparoscopy or embryo. However one thing they do have in common is
the pain of lameness and mastitis. Lameness Surveys of cases of
lameness in dairy cows treated by veterinary surgeons indicate an
average annual incidence of about 4-6%. When cases treated by
the farmer are included the annual incidence appears to be about
25%!" Lameness is a major health and welfare problem in all sheep
producing countries. It is generally regarded as the greatest cause
of pain and
discomfort in sheep. Farmers Weekly writes in
February 1997 that lame sheep were found in 92% of flocks covered by
a Royal Veterinary College survey relating to 758,252 ewes and
427,277 lambs. Mastitis Mastitis is a very painful bacterial
infection of the udder of the cow which causes inflammation and
swelling. The udder becomes hard and hot with an abnormal discharge.
In the recently calved cow the milk is thick, creamy and smells
foul. The cow is often lame in one or both hind legs with swollen
joints. Body temperature can be high and in some cases pregnant cows
will abhor or produce a stunted calf. Around 4 out of ten cows
are affected each year in Britain. Sheep suffer similarly. In really
acute cases the ewe will have a raised temperature and the udder may
start to turn a very dark color as gangrene sets in. If this occurs,
the whole or part of the udder can eventually slough off. In
extreme cases, the ewe will rapidly die of septicemia. Mild mastitis
in sheep will result in permanent damage to the udder, usually in
the form of abscesses, and ewes are often culled as a result.
Treating mastitis in ewes is rarely successful and a three-year
survey of over 30,000 lowland ewes found about 5% were affected. Sub
clinical mastitis is almost impossible to detect but with up to 12%
of ewes affected at some stage in lactation.
Transportation
Problems associated with transportation
include fear and pain associated with handling and mixing animals;
thermal and motion stress; hunger, thirst and exhaustion; and risks
of infection. In September 1996, 240
sheep were killed in a
crash traveling from Britain to Spain via France. The remaining 520
were slaughtered in French abattoirs. Two days later a further 300
sheep died in another crash. Slaughter Sheep are very vulnerable to
stress during drawing out (selecting) for slaughter, loading and
transporting to the abattoir. In fact most of the
stress on the
day of slaughter is often associated with handling, transport and
lair age. These problems become more intense for animals that are un
adapted to handling. Sheep are usually slaughtered by electrical
stunning followed by throat cutting. Stunning, however, may not be
very effective and sheep might regain consciousness when they have
their throats slit or while blood is being drained from their body.
The same with cattle; much distress suffered on the day of slaughter
is caused by transportation and lair age (holding animals just
before
slaughter). Smaller animals like calves are usually
herded into open pens in groups and electrical stunning used.
Captive bolt stunning is commonly used for larger animals such as
cattle. It is a bolt, propelled by a blank
cartridge or
compressed air, that penetrates the skull and destroys part of the
brain. The government's advisory body the Farm Animal Welfare
Council have been concerned at the inadequacy of the stunning.
After stunning animals have their throats slit (stuck) and are
bled to death. It is the bleeding that causes death. It is highly
probably that many animals are being stunned inadequately and die in
distress and pain.Many sheep and cattle are also ritually
slaughtered i.e. they have their throats slit whilst fully
conscious. If the meat isn't considered kosher (because the carcass
is damaged) this meat is sold on the open market without kosher
labeling.
Buy Synthetic - Save a Life
The general public buy millions of tones of
plastic products each year with very little thought. However, when
it comes to purchasing one pair of synthetic shoes or boots, the
very idea appears to be an anathema! Think of the number of washing
up liquid or shampoo bottles every family uses in a month and one
pair of good quality synthetic footwear really doesn't seem so bad
after all! This isn't to say that purchasing a pair of synthetic
shoes is going to be one of the most environmentally friendly acts
of the year. However, those shoes or boots may last several years of
heavy wear and tear before they have to be replaced. Good quality
non-leather footwear is now easy to purchase. The days of a pair of
plastic shoes lasting several weeks before they fall apart is over
providing you choose well-made products. Of course, the best thing
about non-leather footwear is that no animal suffered to produce
them.
Alternatives to Leather
There are now a fabulous range of alternative
non-leather footwear available from DM boots and shoes to summer
sandals in a variety of colors. Fabrics are durable, weatherproof,
warm and allow the feet to 'breathe'. In addition to a range of
footwear, many companies now produce non-leather jackets, bags,
wallets and belts. For a full list of footwear
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